The area where we’re staying, variously called the Midi
Pyrenees, the Haut Garonne, the Albigeois, the Vignoble de Gaillac region, also
likes to emphasize that it’s an area of craftsmen. Yesterday’s expedition to look at potteryin Maitres Toulosane was
one example. Today, we go in search of
distilleries. There are two within 20
minutes of our house.
There is one odd factor at play here. Lots of places, for reasons that escape us,
do not have addresses. Even the Leclerc grocery store, which is in its own
little mall, only lists the street that it’s on. We don’t understand because the French are
somewhat officious and rules/orderliness oriented. So, not assigning numbers to locations on
streets makes for a challenge.
So, today we take a 1 ½ hour walk through the neighborhood
vineyards. Then we leave for the local
distilleries. Maxine puts into the GPS what she can, which
is only the road that they’re on.
We head out and have passed the first one before I can
easily stop the car. And since we
previously decided that we should drive by both and decide which seemed more
amenable to visitors, we head on to the second, Castan. There’s one other car in the parking lot when
we arrive, which we take to be a good sign, so we decide this will be our stop
and head up to the tasting room.
Unfortunately, it looks closed, so we peer in windows instead. Then a woman comes from the back and opens
up, with her daughter alongside her.
We’ve got our little patter down (in French) about how we speak just a
little French, but understand more. That
usually works and the other person admits to the same language skills – they
typically later prove to be MUCH more proficient in English than we are in
French.
We ask to taste her various products, tentatively, because
while we’ve been to plenty of wine tastings in our life, tasting distilled
spirits and liqueurs seems a bit more out there… She says, “but of course” and asks what we
want to try (mind you, all of our conversations at Castan are in French – she’s
more than willing to help us, to speak slowly, to put up with our garbled grammar). We work our way through their product line,
in the end deciding that the 80 proof spirits are the best, we end up buying
375ml bottles of the eau de vie de Poire William (pear), and the eau de vie de
Vieille Prune d’Agen (plum eau de vie aged in acacia wood) .
Our conversation with her goes well enough that we talk
about the founding of their small business.
It was started by her husband’s grandfather in 1946. She doesn’t say, but it seems obvious that
that’s what he did to make a living when World War II ended. We wonder what he, or his family, had done
before. We also talk about yeast fermentation,
distillation, and how the liqueurs are made.
She shows us a promotional video they’ve made for the business and we
get to see pictures of her husband as well as brother-in-law and
sister-in-law. It all serves to help us
better appreciate the artisan quality of what we’re buying.
We walk away happy.
And, since we’re taking the bottles back to LA with us, you will to if
you stop by and try some!
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